Mazar-e-Sharif and the Salang Pass

Have just returned from a three day journey through the Salang tunnel to Mazar-I-Sharif and back. And it was quite a journey. The Salang Tunnel was built by the russians in the 1960's and is a feat of engineering. Ofcourse as history suggests the Russians may have had an ulterior motive for their construction as they invaded Kabul in 1979 - using the tunnel to roll in their tanks. The pass is above 3000 metres and has some great views - though I am glad to do it in early autumn - and not in winter. The road itself does get a little dodgy from time to time, and it is not helped by the kamakarzai driving style of the Afghans who drive it. It is not uncommon to see on a two lane road two cars heading into two cars going the other way. The tire squeeling high spead turning and swerving that follows is quite funny to watch, until your car is one of the four. I was only in fear a couple of times - best not too watch the road too much. Mazar is a large and seemingly prosperous city (in the Afghan sense). The fighting here was not as bad as other places in Afghanistan (and none since 2001), there is not the devastation and pock marked buildings that you see in Kabul and elsewhere. It is the home of the tomb of the remains of Ali (though most Shia Muslems would say his remains lie in Najaf) and his shrine is located at the Blue Mosque which is the heart of Mazar. We also visited Balkh an ancient city dating back to pre-Alexander times. This city was the home to Rumi - an Afghan poet who is still revered today. I would say that Balkh could vie for the title of the spritual home of unrequited love. But I will write some more about this later.

Back in Kabul now and am off to play at the Royal Kabul Golf Course and then spend the next few days visiting and interviewing members of the Afghan Cricket Acadeny.