Off the high horse....

Over the past few days I have done a few things I love doing.

1. Walking in London - its streets seem to be made for the pace of walking, and the places to walk in the City are spaced at comfortable distance; and let's face it, walking beats the tube.

2. Wedding(ing) in Ireland - they do the weddings and funerals so well here - perhaps it is the light.

3. Riding in Amsterdam - cruising the streets on bikes whizzing between canals....
sublime....

Not winning the "War on Terror"

After spending a few weeks in the front line of the war on terror - as my friend J likes to call his time in Afghanistan I now have more incite in to this modern phenomenon. (Though I would like to add here that this gets invoked regularly in Kabul - as in lets get smashed, go to a Chinese whorehouse, go to Dubai for a night - as we deserive as we are on the frontline of the war on terror...by I digress)
The main problem is that the war on terror doesn't mean anything. Th Oxford Dictionary gives the following definitions for terror:
1. intense, sharp, overmastering fear: to be frantic with terror.
2. an instance or cause of intense fear or anxiety; quality of causing terror: to be a terror to evildoers.
3. any period of frightful violence or bloodshed likened to the Reign of Terror in France.
4. violence or threats of violence used for intimidation or coercion; terrorism.
5. Informal. a person or thing that is especially annoying or unpleasant.

While I suspect that the US administration and the various Media pundits who ran with this term after September 11 2001 meant terror to be the 4th definition, it seems that it has slipped now to mean fear or anxiety or perhaps the 5th definition - any person or group whom we find especially annoying or unpleasant. It reminds me of Asterix and Obelix and their little Gaulish village - he was fond of saying that all we have to fear is fear itself (http://gb.asterix.com). Perhaps all we need be terrified of is terror itself. And what I mean by that is that our own anxieties and fears and terrors are what defeat us.

When the Twin Towers fell it was a shock to all civilized people. It was natural that the US president came out firing, promising that heads would roll and that the perpertrators of the heinous act should be brought to justice. I was in New York in November 2001, and a patriotic ferver had overtaken the place. American flags were everywhere and you couldn't watch any TV without seeing exploded diagrams inside Osama Bin Laden's Afghan hideout or a story on the evil scourge of the Taliban or links between various Middle Eastern regimes and Al-Qeada. There was also exteme anxiety - the Statue of Liberty was closed and had been for 2 months, a plane crash in Queens caused the city streets to be gridlocked and other tourist attractions such as the Empire State Building to be closed to the public. This ferver and anxiety drove policy in the early days of the War on Terror and still seems to today - but five years on there seems to be a glaring need to reassess the policy and actions taken post 2001. Because we are losing the war.

It's not really a war on terror - what this socalled war is, at it's core, is containment of extremism or fanaticism. The kind of fanaticism that we see writ large on our TV news bulletins has always existed. And it exists in all religons. In fact Christianity has has it's fair share of fanatical sects and even those who advocated and used violence to effect religious outcomes. What it comes down to is the fanatics quest for immortality.

The philosopher Ernest Becker was first to really identify the quest for immortality has a hard-wired human trait. In a great documentary I saw a few months back called "Flight from Death: The quest for immortality" some American scientists and sociologists have extended the work Becker started to prove this really is a trait that spans all human existence. So far they have completed many different experiments accross many countries and social groups and what comes out is the fact that we as humans, to cope with the fact that we can comprehend and even anticipate our own death, look for ways to immortalise our existence by being part of something larger than ourselves. For many that is religion, for others a patriotic state or others a philosphy or way of life that we think transcends our own existence. Where this becomes a problem is when we feel our version of immortality is threatened by others. Fanatic Muslems, for example, would rather die as suicide bombers to protect their version of immortality than live peacefully watching "Western Values" degrade their puratanical version of Islam. Or more poignantly watching foreign troops invade and occupy their country. While I can understand and even symphathise with this view it is not they way I would like to see people live.

However, if the compassionate Mulit-cultural and Multi-religous world is one that goes against the nature of humans then I think we need to try and change that. It is quite easy to sit back and take pot shots at people whose life view is different from our own. But ultimately this leads to a situation where violence proceeds any form of understanding and old-sterotypes are reinforced. But their are two fronts to fight to change our natures; the first is ignorance and the second is cynicism. Ignorance is potentially easy to combat through education. Cynicism is more pervasive - if this is human nature how are we to change it?

But I believe that the time for fanatics and extreme views will pass and more compassionate and understanding people will come to take their place. Perhaps this is naive optimism - but if this does not happen what will be the outcome? I cannot believe that we are really destined to kill each other.

Goodbye Afghanistan

I left Afghanistan with a littele sadness in my heart because I had a really nice time here. Regardless of the attacks and some of the dodginess that I found - in the most part Afghans are good people just trying to get on with their lives. I hope to return one day - although my girlfriend might have a few words to say about that, especially if I ever tried to get a job there.

On the second last day I met with the Afghan Cricket Academy - a really inspiring place and so many wonderful stories to tell. I will compile my notes and footage and write a long post about this another time.

For now good bye. Here is me in beard and shalwar on the road back to Kabul.

Kabul Cricket

On the road out to the Qargha Lake and the Royal Kabul Golf Course (which was closed - perhaps because of the lastest attack but that is mere speculation) we came upon a group of guys playing cricket on a hardened peice of dirt next to the side of the road. I would have called it a field but nothing was growing there at all. But the standard of cricket was pretty amazing. They played with a tapped tennis ball and a bat - but on the hardened earth they had painted a pitch and two cordons - the inner circle and the boundary. Their talk was all of runs per over to win, economy rates and batting averages - all calculated in Mohammed's exercise book that he was also using to score. He and his friend Rasul told me that almost all the boys here had grown up in Pakistan - Peshawar, Karachi and other cities. Their families had left during hostilities in Afghanistan in the 80's and 90's. Their English was good but their standard of cricket was probably better. Some of the boys wore Pakistani one day outfits others the local shalwar kameez (a long flowing shirt worn over quite baggy pants). Today was the semi-final of their Kabul competition. Teams from different parts of Kabul had formed in the last two years and played a number of games throughout the summer culminating in a final series in September - before the weather in Kabul started to turn cold. I had brought a number of rubber stiched plastic balls from Australia and told them I would return the next day to give to the boys.

Yesterday's Attack & Masood Day

When I was writing yesterday’s post I heard what I thought was a small explosion. It turned out to be the attack on the US army Humvee which occurred about 5km away just near what they call the “Green Zone”. When I saw the pictures on CNN later in the day it seemed like another place. But it was only around the corner from the ISAF base we visited a few days before – where our friend the J-dog is working. Strangely I don’t feel in danger. I have taken to wearing the local garb and am sporting a fairly substantial beard so I don’t think of myself as a beacon for attack, not like all the troops (and ops personal) that have to walk around the streets in full combat uniform. Though the size of the bomb detonated yesterday was such that any armour would have been useless. Evidently the top of the Humvee was found 200ms down the street from the charred chasis of the vehicle. Truly horrendous stuff. One of our journalist friends showed us some of the images from the AAP website of the aftermarth. All the troops are in lockdown for the next few days. Although fighting continues unabated in the south. It seems the Taliban and their supporters are not going to stop fighting any time soon. Suicide attack was unknown to Afghanistan until recently – but now it seems an entrenched tactic of so-called asymmetric warfare. But I don’t think the majority of Afghan people support the insurgency. Today in Afghanistan is Masood Day. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ahmed_Shah_Massoud
Ahmed Shah Masood (known as the Lion of Panjshir) was the leader of the Northern Alliance who held out against the Taliban until this day 5 years ago when he was taken out by two Algerians posing as journalists. These men were sent by Osama Bin Laden to assassinate Masood as quid pro quo for Taliban tolerance of Al Qeada (sic) activities in Afghanistan. Masood was also a Mujahadeen – a devout Muslim who gained his name fighting against the Russians, but was also open to rights for women and strongly believed in a peaceful prosperous Afghanistan. His loss is greatly mourned in this country – and should be all around the world – as strong leadership is needed to solve the myriad problems of this country.

Ruins of the Citadel at Balkh & the Green Mosque

Ransacked by Gengis Khan in the twelth century.

Today the Green Mosque - although partially destroyed is still an oprating religous centre.

One of the tombs near the Green Mosque belongs to the a poet princess named Rabia Balkhi. The story of her death is tragic – as she was martyred by her brother because she wanted to marry a Turkish slave. While incarcerated on the wall of her dungeon she wrote in her own blood:
“I pray God you fall in love
With someone as cold and indifferent as you
Then you may understand
The pain of love, the suffering and torture of separation
And you may appreciate my devotion.”

So perhaps in this case not unrequited but lost.

Rumi the renowned Sufi and poet who was born near here. His love was more his relationship with God than a physical being. In a sense this kind of love is always unrequited. But he teaches those who know how to love God- in a sense - need nothing else. Here is a poem entitled "Call of Love";

At every instant and from every side, resounds the call of Love: We are going to sky, who wants to come with us? We have gone to heaven, we have been the friends of the angels, And now we will go back there, for there is our country. We are higher than heaven, more noble than the angels: Why not go beyond them? Our goal is the Supreme Majesty. What has the fine pearl to do with the world of dust? Why have you come down here? Take your baggage back. What is this place? Luck is with us, to us is the sacrifice!... Like the birds of the sea, men come from the ocean--the ocean of the soul. Like the birds of the sea, men come from the ocean--the ocean of the soul. How could this bird, born from that sea, make his dwelling here? No, we are the pearls from the bosom of the sea, it is there that we dwell: Otherwise how could the wave succeed to the wave that comes from the soul? The wave named 'Am I not your Lord' has come, it has broken the vessel of the body; And when the vessel is broken, the vision comes back, and the union with Him.

Salang Tunnel

The Salang Tunnel - a 3km long tunnel through the Hindu Kush (which I found out literally means Hindu Killer - as these mountians were the grave of many a Hindu Soldier on sorties to what is now Afghanistan). There is virtually no light in the tunnel and it fills with fumes very quickly - although the ventillators now work better than they used to.

Mazar-e-Sharif and the Salang Pass

Have just returned from a three day journey through the Salang tunnel to Mazar-I-Sharif and back. And it was quite a journey. The Salang Tunnel was built by the russians in the 1960's and is a feat of engineering. Ofcourse as history suggests the Russians may have had an ulterior motive for their construction as they invaded Kabul in 1979 - using the tunnel to roll in their tanks. The pass is above 3000 metres and has some great views - though I am glad to do it in early autumn - and not in winter. The road itself does get a little dodgy from time to time, and it is not helped by the kamakarzai driving style of the Afghans who drive it. It is not uncommon to see on a two lane road two cars heading into two cars going the other way. The tire squeeling high spead turning and swerving that follows is quite funny to watch, until your car is one of the four. I was only in fear a couple of times - best not too watch the road too much. Mazar is a large and seemingly prosperous city (in the Afghan sense). The fighting here was not as bad as other places in Afghanistan (and none since 2001), there is not the devastation and pock marked buildings that you see in Kabul and elsewhere. It is the home of the tomb of the remains of Ali (though most Shia Muslems would say his remains lie in Najaf) and his shrine is located at the Blue Mosque which is the heart of Mazar. We also visited Balkh an ancient city dating back to pre-Alexander times. This city was the home to Rumi - an Afghan poet who is still revered today. I would say that Balkh could vie for the title of the spritual home of unrequited love. But I will write some more about this later.

Back in Kabul now and am off to play at the Royal Kabul Golf Course and then spend the next few days visiting and interviewing members of the Afghan Cricket Acadeny.

Kabul - the crazy city

The last few days we have been enjoying the sites and sounds of Kabul. It has left an impression on me, of a vibrant but a little crazy city. We have seen a number of things including the Shah's old palance a massive and grand old building that now stands ruined on the Western Outskirts of the city, the National Museum looted and destroyed by the Taliban, the Zoo - with its rag tag assortment of slightly depressing animals and street urchins, The Bird Market - that seems to have been here for a thousand years with it's tiny winding streets and ancient architecture and the Omar Mine museum - a surreal place where a substantial collection of mines and other weapons from the wars that have ravaged Afghanistan for the last 25 years are kept. But it is the driving around that is the craziest. Our collective Dari (the local dialect) spans about 7 words so directions and locations take some explaining and often end up being wrong. For example the Museum for some reason ended up being Zoo. And trying to get from place to place involves calling a friend who works here on the mobile - him passing the mobile to his local work collegue - us passing the phone to the Taxi diver and the chinese whispers that ensues mean we never quite get the place or directions exactly right. But its all part of the fun. Also part of the fun was 3 load explosions we heard while at the Zoo. It sounded too much like some sort of rocket attack - but in fact it was the local deming operation exploding some mines the had collected from the hills near Kabul. They announce this in the local press but we had no idea - our obvious anxiety was a source of mirth for the locals. Not part of the fun was an attack on a British Army 4x4 that happened yesterday on the same road we had driven down the day before. But because we drive around in local vehicles and taxis we are not obvious targets. Unlike the military personnel who are not allowed to leave there bases without full combat kit. I think perhaps they should send in an SAS unit as tourists here - riding in local transport - they ceratinly would not be as obvious a target. We are off to Mazar-I-Sharif later today should be fun.

Back in the 'Bul

Our trip back from Bamiyan was a 9 hour journey on some of the worst roads I have ever has the misfortune to travel on - but it was spectacular. Mountain passes and lush vallleys and the tranquil beauty of rural life that has existed in these valleys for hundreds of years. Though the last hour was on the made road that goes up to Mazar-I-Sharif. Once you meet this road the whole scene changes with high speed frogger style driving and the road lined with people selling all sorts of goods. It is grape season in Afghanistan at the moment and many of the guys who line the road sell boxes and boxes of what I have to admit are pretty sweet tasting fruit.
Back in Kabul we made it out to a new Mexican resturant run by a guy from Melbourne who came out to Afghanistan as a volunteer - quite nice - but the current troubles leave the place with fewer patrons than he had hoped. Speaking of troubles 3 rockets hit Kabul on Wednesday night - not really doing any damage - and the consensus amongst many of the security experts that we met last night is that it probably was a couple of stupid teenagers having a laugh. With so many weapons floating around this country its not hard to imagine. In fact J-dog tells a story of staying at a hotel in the Panjshir valley - when he was packing to leave his roomate checked under his bed to find an RPG. One of our friends here had to go out at 3:30 in the morning to assess the attack. She tells me that usually when the police arrive they find no evidence of what kind of rocket or mortar was used. Rumour has it it is because some members of the Private Security coterie in Kabul are running a competion to collection the most exploded ordinace - with the winner announced at their Christamas party. Only in Afghanistan.
After dinner we made it to a place called L'Atmosphere a resturant and bar that is probably the coolest expat hangout in town. In fact its courtyard and pool give the feeling of somewhere in the Meditaranean rather than Central Asia. It is rather strange to see all these security experts and other NGO workers drinking there beers and vodkas when you know what is going on in the rest of the country. But who can blame them for wanting to let their hair down. Tomorrow we are off to play 9 holes at Royal Kabul. Boys as they say.....